This time last week I was in a taxi with Henrik Larsson’s next door neighbour.
Roger and I were both heading to a special place.
I generally find travelling stressful.
Consequently, my default setting is to eschew opportunities to leave my little corner here on Ireland’s west coast.
However, when I walked up to Stadio Nacional on Thursday, May 25th last week I knew there wasn’t another place on the planet that I wanted to be at that precise moment.
On the journey from the hotel where the Road to Lisbon (RTL) cyclists had been staying, I got chatting to a couple of fine men from Sweden.
One of them, Roger, had known Henke for a very long time and lives beside him.
Consequently, he had caught the Celtic bug along the way and so had his buddy Stig.
That was why the pair of them had been at the “spirit of 67” gala dinner the night before in the Portuguese capital.
My buddy had briefly chatted with them as they were at the opposite table from us.
In the taxi, Henrik’s neighbour stated that Glasgow football was fascinating for him.
He said that he would not comprehend how two sets of supporters sharing a city could be SO different.
I asked him if he had seen the film “The girl with the dragon tattoo” and he said he had.
He proudly added that it was a Swedish film.
I knew this, and hence it was a good starting point to proffer my explanation.
In the film, there is an old recluse, Harald Vanger, who is the embodiment of Sweden’s fascist past.
The old Nazi realised that modern Sweden didn’t want to acknowledge him or his kind.
In that Scandinavian country, he was one of The People.
I remarked to my new Swedish buddy that the movie is based on the novel by the late Stieg Larsson.
Those Larsson’s are an impressive bunch!
In my opinion, the book is much more enthralling than the celluloid adaptation.
However, the movie was an appropriate hook to give him a cultural reference point for The People.
He had never heard the lyrics of ‘The Billy Boys’ stated clearly or explained to him.
I think it is fair to say that he was utterly appalled.
We parted outside the stadium beside the iconic Hillman Imp.
He has my card and the title of “Minority Reporter” on the back.
Moreover, he stated to me that he would get a copy and he would give it to his goal scoring neighbour once he had read it himself!
It was an appropriate conversation on the way to the site of Celtic’s finest hour.
Victory at that stadium on the 25th of May 1967 inflicted a psychic wound on the Herrenvolk club of Glasgow.
Ultimately that lesion led to their self-inflicted death in 2012.
In the two horse race, one of the contestants died.
For the avoidance of doubt, I can reveal that The Scarf made it back after a half a century!
When it was last here around the neck of my uncle, he was part of the biggest civilian airlift that Europe had ever witnessed.
The Celtic fans of 1967 changed football on the continent just as much as Stein’s Lions revolutionised how the game could be played at the highest level.
Explaining to Henke’s neighbour the cultural differences between the two football tribes of Glasgow helped me to further grasp the unique appeal of Celtic.
A club set up by immigrants to raise funds to feed hungry children.
This isn’t an Irish in Scotland story; it is a universal story.
It is a narrative that people around the world can embrace, and they do.
In the hotel, one of the cyclists was a Dutch lad.
He had been reared a PSV fan, but he had caught the Celtic bug.
When he approached me in the foyer, he said he checked this site every day.
His grasp of the issues of what had transpired over the last five years on Planet Fitba would put any stenographer to shame.
The RTL people encapsulate what makes Celtic a very special club.
Charity is at the heart of being Celtic.
It was just like the thing that I travelled to Portugal and found myself sitting beside a lad from An Fál Carrach!
Ruairí is domiciled in Australia these days, but he travelled back to his corner and then onto Glasgow to start the cycle from Celtic Park with his RTL comrades.
The bean chéile of the main man behind the RTL cycle is a Westmeath woman.
It took us about 30 seconds chatting in the foyer to establish that she knew my kin in the Midlands.
Ireland is a small country and even abroad I’m never far from a relative or a neighbour.
This writing craic adds a new dimension to that.
Even in Stadio Nacional on that mighty anniversary there as someone who wanted me to sign their copy of Downfall!
As I walked around the stadium, I was stopped by a Gaobh Dobhair man.
He introduced himself as the father of a lady who had been in my play “Hame”.
I wrote the part especially for her in the Sweet for Addicts production as the director said Noreen was a mighty singer.
She is.
The song I picked for the character to sing on stage was Gleanntáin Ghlas’ Ghaoth Dobhair.
I put in a script note to say that I would provide the lyrics with a translation and a phonetic spelling to aid her pronunciation of the Irish song.
Noreen said that wasn’t necessary as her father sang the song to her as a child!
It was a pleasure to meet him and chat as Gaeilge in that special place.
Although we were in a football stadium with no match due to be played that day we all knew that Brendan’s Bhoys had a date with destiny that Saturday.
It was clear that Aberdeen was the next best side in Scotland and their robust play might be tolerated.
I think Kieran Tierney can testify to that.
When Tom Rogic put the finishing touch to a perfect weekend, I celebrated in my Argentina CSC T-shirt.
The Buenos Aires Bhoys were sent photographic evidence.
After the cup final, I had a relaxed din dins in Bairro Alto with a Resolution 12 Bhoy and his seriously smart brother.
The latter is based Stateside; I reminded him that it was a great country where it isn’t a crime to be Second Generation Irish.
That cannot be said of the country where the three of us first saw the light of day.
When Billy McNeil lifted the European Cup, it was a victory for a socially excluded community.
The Lions won against all the odds by playing pure inventive, beautiful football.
No financial doping, no side letters and no Honest Mistakes.
It was, as Helenio Herrera conceded, “a victory for sport”.
50 years on Tom Rogic’s goal at Hampden wrote another magical page in the unbroken history of this special club.
When the final whistle was sounded by Brother Madden, the scenes in O’Gilins Irish Pub in Cais do Sodré were not Quintessentially British.
The club founded by Irish immigrants is now the preeminent power on Planet Fitba.
The stenographers and The People are in still in denial about that.
Ah well…
This has been an amazingly unprecedented season, and just like 50 years ago no one can erase that or take way the memories it has created.
I’m still smiling, and I am fairly certain that Roger and Stig, my two new Swedish friends, are similarly minded!
Thanks Phil for sharing, every Celtic fan should try and visit this stadium at some point. I was there in ’94 when Jorge Cadete played and scored against us for Sporting, and made the short trip to this special place. It has a feeling you won’t ever forget. This season has reminded many of us of the uniqueness of being part of the Celtic family. So looking forward to next season. Lastly, does Kieran Tierney not make you so proud? Brought tears to my eyes when he lifted that cup.
A more eloquent eulogy to Lisbon I doubt I’ll ever read.
It broke my heart that illness and its associated hardships prevented me from making it last week but, Phil, your sharing of those moments here, both in words and pictures, has lifted my spirits immensely.
For,if there’s one thing only p, and there are many, that The Lions showed is that we can overcome even the most difficult of drawbacks in life,M that it really isn’t over till it’s over and that it’s not where you come from, it’s where you’re at, that matters.
And all this done with a song if not THE Song, in their hearts
For it’s a grand auld team to see …
Many thanks, Phil. You’ve trugeered a sea change in my attitude with this one piece alone and for that alone, I will be forever grateful.
Another few pints of Guinness onto the list I already owe you.
Thanks again for such heartwarming descriptions of what it truly means to be Celtic through and through.
Our day has come.
I hope your health improves.
Much appreciated, Phil (and apologies for the mad text, the machine has a mind of its own at times.)
Having read all three of your latest articles, I’m glad to inform you I feel better already 🙂
Slainte!
Cracking read. Loved it!!!
Lovely Gweedore song Phil ??
Supberb !!!!!! Phil. HH
Absolute pleasure meeting you in Lisbon Phil. What an amazing experience, 2 weeks of cycling with a great group of people who all have the same things on their mind: raise money for charity, enjoy and be proud to be part of the Celtic Family. Will never forget the feeling when reaching Estadio Nacional… Best day of my life. HailHail ‘the Dutch guy’
Hi buddy.
The pleasure was mine.
Hail hail
Lisbon was possibly the best 3 days I’ve had following Celtic and we weren’t even playing. From the Mass to the Stadium and then onto Pink street. I lost count the amount of times I had to explain to locals and tourists alike that Celtic were not playing in Lisbon and then the look on their face when I explained the real reason for the pilgrimage .
A memorable season and an incredible few days.
A very well written piece Phil. There have been times when I have stopped reading your blog, feeling sometimes that you might be unwittingly alienating some very British and Scottish Celtic supporters like me. But this is pure Celtic; a real snapshot of what it means to be part of the Celtic family, no matter your political or parochial persuasions.
I saw you there Phil, but like everybody else it was the Stadium and atmosphere that was the draw.
Incredible feeling just sitting there soaking it up.
brilliant read. grma.
I was in lisbon last week like you there was no place I would rather have been will live with me for ever
Now I remember seeing you in the stadium….but not the scarf….I checked everyone I could for such a scarf knowing you’d have it with you….bit I missed the scarf…!!!
As I said on here a couple of years ago I might see you at a Latin Mass and then to the stadium…..I made the mass church of San Nicolau just round the corner from our hotel…made the stadium had a great time….met so many nice people….then back to Pink Street….. drink was taken…missed the flight home….got another….
Would do it all again tomorrow…. great day out.
Next time leave the scarf at home….I’ll carry a lit thurible
You won’t be able to miss that….!!!!
Cheers….
Great read, captures exactly “how it feels to be part of the Celtic family, thanks Phil ?
Brilliant peice Phil, i myself will be in Lisbon in 12 days time on the final stop off on my Mediterranean cruise, when booking said cruise last year we looked at lots of different itineraries, but when the one with Lisbon on only a few weeks after the fantastic 50th anniversary it was a no brainer. My uncle, who sadly passed away last year was at that great game as an 18 year old lad from Greenock can’t wait to stand in that sublime stadium and let my heart and mind wonder. Phil would you have any idea how much a taxi from the port/centre of Lisbon to the stadium would be,I’m only in Lisbon for 6 hrs so as the girlfriend shop’s i will be heading to the stadium and time is of the essence…OH67
Taxi price? Does it matter? Just do it ?
This stuff is all very well and interesting but can we have some balance please. To achieve that balance I sense you need to write more about The Rangers.
Phil I was born 1943 what a time to be born European cup winners mother and father born in N Ireland then we have not one but two men from the north to bring us trebles is it just the luck of the Irish Miss the jungle
Took my granddaughter to her first cup final against Aberdeen.Wonderful end to our historic season.She has no concerns about Sevco or corruption in the ruling bodies.She just loves the Celtic so we are progressing by the generation.No more we arra peepul .She knows we are Invincible.Light years from when I was her age.
Proud to say I shared the road to Lisbon with those brave Celtic bhoys and ghirls. The atmosphere cycling into that iconic stadium was something else. And we certainly enjoyed ourselves down on pink street, all that and over £50,000 raised for charity. HAIL HAIL
Excellent piece Phil. In my humble opinion, I think you’ve described exactly what we are and what we are about. There is a philosophy and a truth which runs through our magnificent club,nothing to do with engine room subsidiaries.
I am now in my late sixties, and have always been,and always , will be a proud Timmy.
It has taken time, but we overcame, and continue to overcome every obstacle put in our way.
It’s been brilliant this season especially, akin to poking them with a jaggy stick with a turd stuck on the end
Keep up the good work Phil. Many thanks. ‘
Ruairi Ward, a gent…hadn’t seen him in years since our time in the Galway CSC together. Bumped into him last month and we got to watch the 5-1 victroy at Ibrox, he was telling me all about the cycle. Fantastic stuff!!
Phil, you’ve inspired me to go to Lisbon this year, I’m going to take my missus and go visit that fine stadium. She’ll probably not understand why i’ll shed a tear, but i’m sure you do.
Enjoyed ‘Downfall’ and Rangers new or old will never have what Celtic have.
Beautiful recollection of your time in Lisbon and with a happy tear in my eye ..all the different nationalities you met from all over the world ??and Celtic Fans ….,Glasgow Celtic YES is a world wide Club and Family ..Hail Hail 1st Champions Of Europe and another one coming soon very soon ??????????????
At the stadium I new your face but couldn’t place it, wish I had now. Len Steele, Willie MacDonald and my kilted self had travelled over from South Uist in the Western Isles too. Born too late there was only one place I’d said all my life I would be on May 25th 2017.
Wish I’d gone now.
A great and uplifting read that captures the spirit of the 50th Anniversary celebrations, last weekend’s Treble Triumph, and the club responsible for both of them! If I may, here is my commemoration of both achievements. Keep up the good work!
https://theclumpany.wordpress.com/2017/05/26/the-lisbon-lions-how-to-live-forever/
https://theclumpany.wordpress.com/2017/05/29/the-hangover-from-heaven/
Did you realise just how appropriate your Argentina CSC was? The main square in Buenos Aires, where the Casa Rosada, and the Pope’s cathedral when he was Archbishop, is called the “Plaza Veinticinco de Mayo”.
Argentina has the largest Irish community in the non-English speaking world.
There is huge potential there for Celtic.
From a County Mayo Town came a man of great relnown …….
And Welsh! Welsh is an official language in Argentina.
Patagonia.
A place I have always wanted to visit.
Bigger than Connemara? ?
Congratulations Phil on another wonderful piece of writing that
Encapsulates so well what being part of the Celtic family is all about and the battle the Irish diaspora has been through, but one with such pride in our marvelous football club and with help from wordsmiths like your good self it is one where we will ultimately triumph
Keep up the good work Mo chara
Many thanks